Topical Dermatological Potential of Tagetes erecta L. Flower Extract: Phytochemistry, Skin-Relevant Mechanisms, Dermatological Evidence, and Translational Relevance to BIOPANACEA™ Cream — A Narrative Review

Abstract

Tagetes erecta L. (Asteraceae), the African or Aztec marigold, is a carotenoid- and polyphenol-rich species of increasing relevance to cosmetic formulation science. Its flowers are an established commercial source of lutein and lutein esters and also contain zeaxanthin, quercetagetin, patuletin-related compounds, syringic acid and β-amyrin. This narrative review evaluates the skin-relevant evidence for T. erecta flower extract across antioxidant defence, inflammatory regulation, extracellular-matrix preservation, melanogenesis, antimicrobial activity, repair biology, photoprotection-related mechanisms, topical formulation performance and human skin compatibility. Literature was identified through structured searches of PubMed/MEDLINE, Scopus, Web of Science and Google Scholar with citation chaining, prioritising authenticated flower-derived material published through August 2026. Direct flower-extract evidence demonstrates free-radical scavenging, inhibition of lipid peroxidation, tyrosinase, elastase, hyaluronidase and MMP-1, and regulation of inflammatory cytokines, neutrophil migration and macrophage efferocytosis. A polyphenol-enriched flower fraction suppresses α-melanocyte-stimulating-hormone-induced melanogenesis through the cAMP–CREB–MITF–tyrosinase axis. Topical flower preparations show antibacterial and repair-relevant activity, and have been formulated into gels, creams, nanoemulsion gels, nanostructured lipid-carrier creams, chitosan films and hydrogels. Two small human topical investigations, together with human irritation testing, provide delivery-system-specific translational evidence. Lutein and zeaxanthin add a complementary xanthophyll rationale supported by human carotenoid studies, although constituent and whole-plant findings cannot be assumed to represent any given flower extract. Collectively, the evidence provides a coherent ingredient-level basis for the topical use of T. erecta flower extract and supports its incorporation as the principal botanical active in BIOPANACEA™ Cream, interpreted according to botanical authentication, cultivar, extract composition and delivery system, and not equated with finished-product clinical proof.